Scotland of East : Meghalaya

Meghalaya is a state in north-eastern India. The word "Meghalaya" literally means the Abode of Clouds in Sanskrit and other Indic languages. Meghalaya is a hilly strip in the eastern part of the country. The state is bounded on the north by Assam and by Bangladesh on the south. The capital is Shillong also known as the Scotland of the East, which has a population of 260,000. Meghalaya currently has 7 districts. These are: East Garo Hills, East Khasi Hills, Jaintia Hills, Ri-Bhoi, South Garo Hills, West Garo Hills and West Khasi Hills.

Meghalaya is one of the most picturesque states of India, which serves as an ideal gateway for people in search of beauty and tranquility. The panoramic landscapes, foggy hills, cascading waterfalls, serpentine rivers, and terraced slopes soothe the minds of weary travellers. Meghalaya has some of the thickest surviving forests in the country and therefore constitutes one of the most important eco-tourism circuits in the country today. The Meghalayan subtropical forests support a vast variety of flora and fauna. Meghalaya has 2 National Parks and 3 Wildlife Sanctuaries. Meghalaya also offers many adventure tourism opportunities in the form of mountaineering, rock climbing, trekking and hiking, water sports etc. The state offers several trekking routes some of which also afford an opportunity to encounter some rare animals such as the slow loris, assorted deer and bear. The Umiam Lake has a water sports complex with facilities such as rowboats, paddleboats, sailing boats, cruise-boats, water-scooters and speedboats.

Meghalaya has an estimated 500 natural limestone and sandstone caves spread over the entire state including most of the longest and deepest caves in the sub-continent. Krem Liat Prah is the longest cave and Synrang Pamiang is the deepest cave, both located in the Jaintia Hills. Cavers from United Kingdom , Germany, Austria , Ireland and the US have been visiting Meghalaya for over a decade exploring these caves. Not many of these have however been developed or promoted adequately for major tourist destinations.

District map of Meghalaya

How to Reach Meghalaya

By Air: The state has no airport. Guwahati is the nearest airport from Shillong (128Kms). But a helicopter service is operated by Guwahati and Tura for Shillong.

By Rail: The state has no railway station. Guwahati is the closest railway station.

By Road: The state has a good Road Network which encompasses the state conveniently. NH 40 connects the state with Guwahati and other cities of the country.

Entry Formalities: Foreign tourists need a valid visa which can be further extended and Indian tourists need not obtain any permit for entry.

Best way to travel: Hire a cab from Guwahati for to and fro journey. Cab hiring charges are around Rs.25000 for total journey (for 7-8  days). It’s recommended that you travel in a group and take out a minimum of 7-8 days for this journey.

Best time to visit:

Visit Meghalaya any time of the year except the rainy season, which is June to September. This is, after all, one of the wettest places on earth!

Climate:

In summer, ranges from 15°C to 25°C; in winter, it is much colder, with temperature ranging between 4°C and 16°C. The hills are also often covered by fog during this season.

Things required:

Warm woollen clothes, mosquito repellent, candle and match-box (since there’s frequent power failure throughout Meghalaya) and an umbrella/rain-coat.

Accomodation:

There are lot of Government Guest Houses available at Shillong, Mawlynnong village, Cherrapunji(Sohra)  and Jowai. The Government Guest Houses and Hotels information can be accessed from http://megtourism.gov.in/accommodation.html.

Itinerary:

Meghalaya can be visited using different circuits. We followed the following circuits during our travel.

CIRCUIT 1: Guwahati - Umiam Lake – Shillong – Dawki - Mawlynnong Village

This circuit can be covered in two days. You arrive at Guwahati in the morning on the first day and start for Shillong and  night stay at Shillong. Next Day start for Mawlynnong Village and night stay at Mawlynnong Village.

Umiam Lake

Location: Ri Bhoi District on the Guwahati-Shillong National Highway

More popularly known as Barapani, this is the biggest artificial lake in the State. Surrounded by Sylvan Hills and wrapped in the beauty of an assortment of green Khasi-pines and the azure blue skies is the majestic Umiam lake. The lake situated just 15 km from Shillong on the Guwahati-Shillong National Highway has left a lasting impression on each and every person who has come to this lake.

Developed upon the reservoir of the Umiam Hydro Electric Project, the Water Sports Complex provides a choice of row-boats, paddle-boats, cruise boats, sailing boats, water scooters and speed boats. This is a very popular place for picnic, fishing and watersports. M.T.D.C. had started operating water-sports in the area. Also the Orchid Lake resort run by the M.T.D.C. cater to the need of the visiting tourists.

Adjacent to the resort is the Lum Nehru Park, a popular picnic spot.

Umiam Lake

Shillong

Location: East Khasi Hills District

The capital city of the State as well as the District headquarter of East Khasi Hills District. The name Shillong is derived from U-Shyllong, a powerful deity and is situated at an altitude of 1,491m above sea level. This beautiful city is 103kms. from Guwahati, the nearest air and train link. The presence of many well reputed educational institutions, many of them established by various missionary groups make Shillong the hub of education for the entire north-east.

Dawki

Location: Jaintia Hills District

Travelling from Shillong to the International trade route border town of Dawki is a splendid drive of 95 kilometres passing through deep gorges and ravines, which is certainly a thrilling experience. The major attraction of this place is its natural scenic beauty. On approaching Dawki is the Umngot river, the venue of the annual boat race held during March - April at Umsyiem. The Umngot river is the natural boundary between Ri Pnar or Jaintia Hills with Hima Khyrim of Khasi hills over which is a single span suspension bridge was constructed. This is the gateway to Bangladesh where major export and import transactions take place.

Scenic beauty around Dawki

Indo-Bangladesh Border

Mawlynnong Village

Location: East Khasi Hills District

Mawlynnong Village has earned the distinction of being the cleanest village in India. It is situated 90 kms. from Shillong and besides the picturesque village, offers many interesting sights such as the living root bridge and another strange natural phenomenon of a boulder balancing on another rock.

Mawlynnong nestled in the pristine hill state of Meghalaya, is along the Indo-Bangla border. This cute and colourful little village is known for its cleanliness. The main occupation of the villagers is agriculture. They mostly grow betel nut. About 82 households live in Mawlynnong. Keeping the surrounding environment clean is an age old tradition.

Tree House 

Living root bridge

CIRCUIT 2: Mawlynnong  -  Cherrapunjee – Shillong

Most of the people cover this circuit in one day and visit Cherrapunjee and return to Shillong the same day. However it make sense to stay one night at Cherrapunjee and visit the caves, water falls and Laitkynsew double decker root bridge. We recommend to start early from Mawlynnong for Cherrapunjee and visit the water falls and caves the same day. Next day visit the Laitkynsew double decker root bridge which is a one day activity and a life time experience .

Sohra (Cherrapunjee) 

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Sohra, previously known as Cherrapunjee, a Sub-Division in the East Khasi Hills District of Meghalaya, is set upon a plateau on the southern slopes of the state. Sohra is dotted with waterfalls cascading over deep gorges. The swift flowing rivers and streams flow in a southernly direction to the plains.

Sohra is 56 kms from Shillong and is literally the highest point of any visit in Meghalaya. One of those ultimate eco-friendly destinations, a place renowned all over the world for having the privilege of receiving the highest rainfall in the world. Set against the backdrop of breath-taking landscape, it is a place to discover the Indian summer monsoons. A unique annual meterological phenomena directly influenced by the south west monsoon and the north east winds. The heavy monsoon rains over these mountains undoubtedly creates in Sohra one of the rarest bio-diverse vegetations in the world. Truly a beautiful corner in north-east India, waiting to be discovered and explored.

The temperature starts warming by the third week of May and continues right to the end of September and sometimes gets extended well into the middle of October. The average rainfall is 12,000 mm a year, with the maximum rainfall occuring over the southern slopes of the Khasi Hills in Sohra. The highest recorded total annual rainfall was 24,555 mm in 1974. The maximum for a single day was recorded in 1876 in Sohra, when 1,040 mm fell in 24 hours. Sohra also holds the World Record for a month's rainfall when 9,300 mm fell in July 1861.

The old Cherra or Sohrarim was the original Cherra village but with the coming of the British who set up their headquarters further south, the village came to be known as 'Sohra' or present day Cherrapunjee. It was here that the British realised the enormity and intensity of the rainfall and set up a meterological office for measuring the rain.

Sohra was declared by the British to be the capital of Assam in 1832, which was later shifted to Shillong in 1866 due to the inclement weather.

Mawkdok Dympep Valley View

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

A few kms from Umtynagar, as one takes the right turn from the road junction, one comes across a beautiful bridge known to the locals as the Duwan Singh Syiem Bridge, that is the entrance to the Sohra tourist circuit. From here the landscape abruptly changes into picturesque deep gorges. The Forest Department has constructed a view-point where visitors can stop a while and enjoy the spectacular natural beauty.

Sa-I-Mika Park

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Located on the way to the world famous ‘Dainthlen Falls’ and about 3 kms before reaching Sohra town is Sa -I - Mika Park, a one stop tourist destination. Set amidst 69 acres of pristine surroundings, Sa -I - Mika offers not only accommodation but a host of activities that is caters to people from all ages and walks of life. At present there are four double bedded rooms with all modern amenities and two traditional cottages. On offer are well appointed rooms, hot and cold running water, room service priced at Rs.1200/- and Rs.1500/- per night. There is also a 200 capacity conference hall which is suitable for hosting cooperate and departmental events, seminars, workshops and concerts. On request, the management can also arrange to organise barbecues, bonfires, tour guides, traditional Khasi dance and local cuisine and drink.

The park has the distinct advantage of being located close to the waterfalls and one can arrange treks and tours to these places, as well as the caves and other areas of tourist interest. Since the management is closely associated with the community, one can also opt for a homestay in one of the villages, to experience life with a typical Khasi family.

Dain-Thlen Falls

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Just before reaching Sohra, a road to the right, leads one to the falls which is 5 kms away. The waterfall derives its name from a Thlen or a snake of gigantic size which dwelt in a cave. Legend has it that the people destroyed the snake in order to rid themselves of its reign of terror. Adjacent to the very spot where the Thlen was slaughtered lies the Dain-thlen Waterfalls. Natural rock carvings of the episode draw visitors to see the image of the Thlen, the symbol of greed, corruption and evil.

Noh-Kalikai Falls

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

A hauntingly beautiful waterfall, cascading down from the top of the gorge to the mystic deep green pool below, reminding one of the tragic legend associated with it, of a grief stricken mother who plunged to her death, unable to overcome her sorrow over the murder of her daughter by her husband.

Mawmluh Cave

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Access to the cave is via the river, which lies to the south east of the Cement Factory. The entrance is about 10 ft. above water level. A single entrance leads to a double passageway, where the upper portion in certain areas have caved in due to the intensive quarrying of limestone above the cave. The river enters the cave and forms pools of water within the cave. This cave stretches for about 4,500 meters but is marred by pollution entering the cave from the cement factory. Locally known as Krem Mawmluh, it is one of the longest caves in the Indian subcontinent.

Eco Park

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

A large "Eco Park" established by the Meghalaya government in the plateau, which hosts several hybrid and indigenous orchids in the Green House donated by Shillong Agri-Horticultural Society. Also the Eco Park offers breathtaking view of distant Sylhet Plains of neighbouring Bangladesh.

Thangkharang Park

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Managed and well maintained by the State Forest Department, this park on Mawsmai - Shella Road - about 8 kms from Sohra is a popular tourist spot. There are many rare and exotic orchids and some rare species of plants endemic to the area. A panoramic view of the plains of Bangladesh is clearly visible on a clear day from the park.

Thangkarang Park laid on the high rocky cliffs overlooks the plains of Bangladesh. You can spot the imposing Kynrem falls cascading down majestically in three stages. The bird sanctuary at nearby Thangkarang with the awesome view of the imposing waterfalls set against the backdrop of Bangladesh plains is a bonanza for tourists, both foreign and domestic. 

Ka Khoh Ramhah

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

Also known as Motrop, is an imposing single rock formation in the shape of a giant cone. According to folklore, this was the fossilized cone shaped basket of an evil giant. It lies in close proximity to two other very similar rocks standing like a pair of giant sentinels. During the heavy monsoons, water flows between the two rocks and the cascading waterfall presents a breathtaking sight. The place attracts a lot of visitors throughout the year and is an idyllic picnic spot.

Kynrem Falls

Location: East Khasi Hills District, Sohra

The highest waterfall in Meghalaya, it cascades down in three stages from the top of the hill and overlooks the Thangkharang Park.

Laitkynsew

Location: East Khasi Hills District

15 Kms further from Sohra (Cherrapunjee) there is a holiday resort run by a private party. The resort offers visitors treks around the picturesque hills, spring bath, the thrills of caving and many other forms of excitement. Close to the resort there is the living root bridge across a torrential stream, that any visitor would love to see.

In the adjacent village of Nongriat two such living bridges have been created by weaving and inter-twine roots of the same banyan tree. It has come to be referred to as Jingkieng Nongriat or more commonly Double Decker.


Trek to the Living Root Bridge (Ummunoi) –


The trek takes around nine hours involving a walk downhill 2,500 ft and up. Total distance of 25 km (approx) of which 10 km is by a beautiful mountain skirting road commanding a beautiful view of the valley and through three colourful Khasi villages — Nongraite, Nongthymmai and Mynteng. Trek is open throughout the year. This trek starts from the Resort premises and goes down hill through village Sohsahrat. The steps are relatively steeper in two short stretches.  Half the distance is covered by steps going down hill. Then there is a jungle path going along the sides of the hill leading to the Living Root Bridge with a few steps after short stretches of sloping foot path.  Moss thrives on these sandstone steps during the monsoon and makes them slippery.  However, the steps can be negotiated easily with little care by locking the hind of your feet in the depressions between stones in the steps.   The path thru’ the jungle and bay leaf gardens is quite interesting.  As you near the bridge you hear the sound of water flowing by the stream.  After admiring the Living Root Bridge and taking snaps, get down into the stream and take a refreshing bath in the stream.  En-route you get to see snails, millipedes, butterflies and spiders in their webs. After seeing the bridge you move ahead to a naturally formed Dolomite archway.  Notice how the villagers tap the water from the stream by bamboo pipes running long distances to drip irrigate the betel leaf creepers during the dry season in winter.

Double-decker living root bridge

Across the Ummnoi river:
Swimming - Beyond the bridge, after a walk for another 2 km to reach Mawsaw Steel Rope Bridge, one can access the famous natural swimming pools. The larger pool is deep for expert swimmer. These pools are very rough during the monsoon seasons and one is not allowed to swim. The flowing water is so crystal clear and transparent that any avid swimmer can not resist the temptation to swim. The flowing water is warmed by sunrays and the heat radiated by the huge boulders that they flow through. These pools are reached by treks down the hill. 

CIRCUIT 3: Cherrapunjee - Shillong – Jowai

This circuit can be covered in two days. Start from Shillong and visit the Nartiang Monoliths

On the same day and night stay at Jowai. Next day visit the stone bridge, pitcher plant, water falls and lakes.

Jowai

Location: Jaintia Hills District

64 kms. from Shillong is the administrative headquarters of Jaintia Hills as well as the commercial centre. It is situated along side the Myntdu river which encircles two thirds of this over expanding township.

Nartiang Monoliths

Location: Jaintia Hills District

Monoliths exist throughout the length and breadth of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. However, the biggest collection of monoliths or Megalithic stones in one single area is to be found north of the Nartiang market. These consists of Menhirs (Upright stones) Moo Shynrang and Dolmens (flat stones in the horizontal position) locally known as Moo Kynthai. Within the perimetre of these Megalithic collection stands the tallest Menhir erected by U Mar Phalyngki a trusted lieutenant of the Jaintia King to commemorate his victory in battle. Other monoliths were erected by U Mar Phalyngki, U Luh Lyngskor Lamare and various clans of Nartiang village between 1500A.D.and l835A.D.

Thadlaskein Lake

Location: Jaintia Hills District

8 k.m.. from Jowai on National highway - 44 is a man made lake at Thadlaskein fed by a Perennial spring. According to tradition, one Chieftain Sajar Nangli had an irreconcilable difference with the King of Jaintiapur. Not wanting to be blamed for an inevitable bloodbath he decided to flee from the Kingdom with his followers. Before his departure, however, they dug the present day lake with the ends of bows as a memorial. The lake is revered by the people of Raid Mukhla who continue to offer sacrifices near the Lake. A popular picnic spot for locals.

Stone Bridge at Thlumuwi

Location: Jaintia Hills District

16 kms. from Jowai on the Jowai Muktapur road to Dawki lies Thlu Muwi. This stone bridge built by U Mar Phalyngki and U Luh Lamare under the orders of the Jaintia King. Because of the rise of the Muwistream during the monsoon a bridge was required to be built for the King's journey from Jaintiapur to Nartiang. The bridge consists of huge well hewn granite stone slabs perched on equally similar pillars. Beside the stone bridge is also the Muwi Waterfalls.

Krang Suri Falls

Location: Jaintia Hills District

Krang Suri is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the District. It is located in the Amlarem Civil Sub Division. To transform the place into a tourists destination the District Administration has initiated steps to construct Chisseled and graveled footpaths and view points to enable visitors to better appreciate the beauty of the waterfall and its surroundings. The footpaths are hewn from the natural multi colored stones available in the area, no cement has been used and stones have been placed symmetrically to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the area.

Jarain Pitcher Plant Lake

Location: Jaintia Hills District

Located at Jarain, in Amlarem subdivision of War-Jaintia region amid the natural habitat of the carnivorous pitcher plant -- Nepenthenes Khasiana spreads over an area of 50,000 square metres. A pretty lake sits placidly amid gravelled footpaths, arch bridges, pitcher plant garden and green house -interpretation centre. The railings of the boat-house are styled on the pitcher plant. A pitcher plant replica in the middle of the lake doubles up as a fountain -- the setting is perfect for a leisurely boat ride. There are paddle-boats to engage visitors as they soak in the greenery of the low lying hillocks around. Four boats have been provided and the lake is attracting a lot of visitors from far and near.

Pitcher plant

Tyrshi Falls

Location: Jaintia Hills District

Tyrshi Falls on the Shillong-Jowai Road (NH 44) is Jowai's answer to Shillong's Elephant Falls. This fall is located about 5 kms from Jowai. A pretty arch bridge connects across an expanse of green paddy fields, which opens up to the gushing Tyrshi falls thundering down to the Pynthor (paddy-fields) below. A winding footpath offering a breathtaking and panoramic view of the Pynthor Nein, eases your trek down to the bottom of the falls, which glides down like milk over a vertical drop.

Tyrshi Falls

Nature’s Paradise: Assam - Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal Pradesh, the land of rising sun, is a complete paradise full of lush green forests, thousands of species of flora and fauna, having its own traditional arts and crafts, and simple, friendly and hospitable people. This land with the sparse population is away from all commercialization, have very few tourists, so untouched; but mark my words, it’s worth visiting, a unique experience in itself. One feels so close to nature, away from all that hustle-bustle of daily life routine.

Arunachal Pradesh is a state of India, located in the far northeast. It borders the states of Assam and Nagaland to the south, and shares international borders with Burma in the east, Bhutan in the west, and the People's Republic of China in the north. The majority of the territory is claimed by the People's Republic of China as part of South Tibet. Its best to travel Arunachal Pradesh through Assam.

 Mountaineous terrain of Arunachal

Assam is the land upon which Mother Nature has showered her blessings to the fullest. The gateway to the north eastern part of the country, the state of Assam is gifted with lush green meadows, fertile plains, the enormous Brahmaputra river, the beautiful hills, the blue mountains, the wonderful looking tea plantations, the rich flora and fauna.  It is also the home to the famed one horned rhinoceros and few other rare animal species. Thus along with the tourists, it has also emerged as the favorite destination for the wild life lovers. Assam is best known for its National Parks.

 Assam's popular National Park

 Assam tea gardens

Entry Procedure:

Arunachal Pradesh being a Protected Area, tourists are required to get an Inner Line Permit ( ILP )/ Protected Area Permit. A number of entry formalities have been relaxed for foreign tourists. The permits can be obtained in following ways:  I.   For domestic tourists Innerline Permits are issued by the Secretary (Political),Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar and respective Deputy Commissioner and Additional Deputy Commissioner of the Districts. These can also be obtained from Resident Commissioner's office/ Liaison Offices located at New Delhi, Calcutta, Guwahati, Shillong, Dibrugarh, Tezpur, North Lakhimpur, Jorhat. II.   For foreign tourists The foreign tourists can obtain the Protected Area Permit from all Indian Missions abroad, Home Ministry, Govt. of India and Home Commissioners, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. For more info refer to: http://arunachalpradesh.nic.in/tourism.htm

How to reach: One cannot directly reach Arunachal Pradesh. Guwahati is the gateway to the whole of northeast India. So, to reach any part of Arunachal you have to reach Guwahati first. 

Though there are various tourist circuits that can be followed to travel in Arunachal, the most picturesque and recommended path is the one you follow from Guwahati to Bhalukpong to Tawang.

Click on the map to get larger view

Travel modes:

By bus: Arunachal State Transport Department is running daily services including deluxe night buses from Itanagar to most district head quarters including Guwahati/Tezpur in Assam and Shillong in Meghalaya. Private bus services are also available in different routes including private luxury buses operating from Guwahati to major cities of Arunachal. Taxis are also available throughout the state for various places.

By train: There is no railway station in the state so far due to tough hilly terrain but in the foot hills of Assam people can reach various destinations through nearby rail heads.

The nearest rail head for various places –

PLACE	RAIL HEAD (Assam)
Itanagar Bomdila/Tawang	Harmuty   Rangapara

By air: Air services are available from Delhi, Kolkata to Guwahati and Mohanbari (Dibrugarh). One can directly reach Tawang from Guwahati by helicopter.

Advantages:

§  You reach fast , say, within an hour or so.

Disadvantages:

§  You miss all the scenic beauty and the adventurous trip.

§  Travelling by helicopter to Tawang is not safe at all. Helicopter crashes are common there.

Best way to travel: Hire a cab from Guwahati to Tawang for to and fro journey. Cab hiring charges are around Rs.25000 for total journey (for 7-8  days). Its recommended that you travel in a group and take out a minimum of 7-8 days for this journey.

Climate: Cooler than the rest of the North-eastern states on account of its altitude, evenings and mornings in Arunachal can get very cold. Areas that are at a very high elevation in the Upper Himalayas close to the Tibetan border enjoy an alpine or Tundra climate. Below the Upper Himalayas are the Middle Himalayas, where people experience a temperate climate. Areas at the sub-Himalayan and sea-level elevation generally experience humid, sub-tropical climate with hot summers and mild winters. Arunachal Pradesh receives heavy rainfall of 80 to 160 inches (2,000 to 4,100 mm) annually, most of it between May and September.

Best time to travel: October – November and April - May, specially if you are planning on visiting Bomdila or Tawang.

Worst time to travel: June – September, when the rains really come down hard and roads get washed away with communications getting disrupted and December – March, when it snows.

Things required: Warm woollen clothes, mosquito repellent, candle and match-box (since there’s frequent power failure throughout Arunachal Pradesh and also in Assam).

Health tips: Unlike Leh - Ladakh, Arunachal Pradesh has no lack of oxygen due to dense forests so there are less chances of getting AMS (altitude sickness). Heart patients get advised from your doctor. There are army camps at short distances throughout so there’s not much worry about medical aid if needed.

Though Assam and Arunachal Pradesh are sensitive areas yet tourists can freely enjoy the place , there not much safety concerns here. There are several army camps at short distances, specially in Arunachal Pradesh.

Iternary:

Tezpur-Bhalukpong-Bomdila-Tawang Tourist Circuit

Guwahati – Nameri National Park (Assam) (216 kms.):

Start your journey from Guwahati at early morning. From Guwahati take hired cab to Nameri National Park (N.P.). Its around 6-7 hours drive. Stop at Tezpur (181 kms. drive from Guwahati) for a lunch break. There are many restaurants at Tezpur. From Tezpur move on to Nameri National Park where you’d reach by evening. Nameri National Park has Eco Camp inside , surrounded by dense forest. Camp has individual eco-friendly huts with attached bathrooms. Camp offers you an excellent buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Eco Camp @ Nameri National Park

Though there’s not much to see at Nameri N.P. except for the Jia Bharali river that divides the dense forests into two parts and one can go for mild river rafting, nature walk, angling and bird watching. Beyond the river one can always hear the roars of tigers, trumpeting of elephants and chirping of various variety of birds.  It is the home of  mammals like Elephant, Tiger, leopard, Sambar, Barking deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar, Gaur, slow loris, gaplangur, Burmese ferret badger, and over 350 species of birds including White-winged Wood Duck, Ibisbill (uncommon), Ruddy Kingfisher,  Palla’s fishing eagle, Lesser Adjutant stork , Greater spotted eagle, Rufous necked hornbill, Great pied Indian hornbill, Wreathed hornbill, Long-billed Ringed Plover, Sultan Tit, and Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails. One night stay is sufficient here.

 The Jia Bharali River @ Nameri National Park

Next day morning one can start for Arunachal Pradesh and the stoppage would be Dirang.

Nameri National Park – Dirang (Arunachal Pradesh) (200 kms.):

Start early in the morning from Nameri so that you can reach Dirang before dark. From Nameri you head for Bhalukpong (28 kms. from N.P.) which is at the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh , in other words, it is the entry point to Arunachal Pradesh. At Bhalukpong you need to show the entry passes/permissions. There’s army canteen where one can take rest for a while and have some snacks. Also there are small shops where you can find eatables.

Then head for Bomdilla (125 kms. from N.P.) where you can stop at some restaurant for lunch. One can also stay at Bomdila. Bomdilla is at an altitude over 8500 feet, its colder and is famous for its Yak Research Center and orchids plantation and also apple and kiwi orchards. Apples and kiwis are produced in winters, so no apples and kiwis are available during summers. After quick lunch, start for Dirang.

Dirang is a valley-based town and one can find many hotels and lodges. Government lodges are also available and are better than other private ones. Also the meals available are better here. Mark, availability of proper north-Indian food is scarce except for the army canteens, so it’s advised you take your food items along with you or eat where-ever you find a proper hygienic place to eat. Due to sparingly any tourism and also less population there are only one or two star rated eating places.

Dirang

Dirang – Tawang (143 kms.):

After a night’s stay at Dirang, start for Tawang. Its again a long journey, say around eight to nine hours drive. Scenic beauty throughout the journey is mesmerising. On the way you’d find army canteen where you can stop for lunch / snacks.

The narrow roads, floating clouds , lush green dense forests of mixes vegetation – starting from deciduous forests to tropical rain forests to coniferous forests to mosses and lichens, the huge Himalayas and river flowing throughout the way in the valley and small and huge water-falls here and there , make your journey an unforgettable one and be with you as one of the most cherished memories. Its an experience in itself , worth all that that takes you to come here.

Sela Pass (about 13,900 feet above ground level): Sela Pass comes in the way to your journey to Tawang. This pass is the world’s second highest motorable pass after the one at Ladakh. It’s a unique experience in itself. This pass is basically the enterance to Tawang. A small dhabha which is kept hot and cosy, could be found here where one can eat Maggie and have some snacks along with a hot cup of tea. Also hot water for drinking is available. Run by an Arunachali couple, its such a relief in the bitter cold one faces there. There’s the half frozen Paradise Lake, surrounded by mountains , a beautiful sight in itself.

Paradise Lake @ Sela Pass

@ Sela Pass

Jaswant Garh: The war memorial is located 14 kms from Sella Pass on the way to Tawang. The memorial pay homage to Jaswant Singh Rawat, Mahavir Chakra Awardee posthumous (the second highest award from the Indian Army). In the famous battle of Nuranang against Chinese in November 1962, Rawat and two other soldiers from 4th Batallion Garhwal Rifles were instrumental in killing 300 Chinese soldiers in 72 hours.

Jaswant Garh Fort

Magestic waterfall and power house on the way to Tawang

Tawang: You reach Tawang by evening and try to stay in a government lodge. Its almost like a three-star hotel and it is recommended to have your meals at the lodge itself since after much of “investigation” we came to this conclusion that while in Tawang, either eat in the army canteen or in the government lodge.

Places to visit in Tawang:

§  Tawang Monestry: It is the one of the world’s oldest and largest monestry , around 400 years old. It is situated at an altitude of approximately 10,000 ft. It also holds the distinction of being the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. The monastery is the house of more than 700 monks.  The monastery was founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso, in 1681 in accordance to the wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, Nagwang Lobsang Gyatso.  As per the legend, the site of the Monastery was chosen by the horse of Merag Lama. Merag Lama, who had been unable to decide a site to establish the monastery. One day he was praying in cave, seeking a divine guidance. When he came out after the prayers, he found his horse was missing. On search, the horse was located standing quietly on a hilltop. Considering that as the sign of divine blessing he decided to construct the monastery at the very spot. The monastery is also called Galden Namgey Lhatse meaning celestial paradise. There is a magnificent 8 meter high statue of Lord Buddha. The ancient library inside the courtyard has an excellent collection of  thangkas, painted with the blood from the nose of 5th Dalai Lamaand valuable Buddhist manuscripts mainly Kanjur and Tanjur numbering 850 bundles.

Paintings @ Tawang Monestry

Offering "butter lamps" : the Monastic ritual @ Tawang Monestry

§  Tawang War – memorial: The memorial is dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 Sino-Indian war. The memorial is 40-foot-high and like a stupa in design. It is locally called ‘Namgyal Chortan’. The  names of 2420 martyrs imprinted in gold on 32 black granite plagues.

§  Ugyenling Monastery: It is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama who is the only Indian to have risen to such a high position in Gelupka Sect of Buddhism so far. Inside the monastery there are several Stupas (Vihar) and people from all walks of life visit this place during Buddhist new year to get the blessing for the coming year.

Inscription @ Ugyenling Monestry

§  The Craft Center: The craft center in Tawang sells beautiful masks, hand woven carpets, jewellery in silver, coral and amber, ‘chubas’ the local dressand delightful affordable mementos.

Note: For the below destinations, permit has to be taken from DC office in Tawang. Get the permit stamped at the Brigade Major's office opposite Tawang War Memorial, the office is open to civilians after 5 PM. Without the Army stamp, you will not be allowed to ride on this inner line route.

Start early from Tawang; 7 AM is a good time, and start the return journey from Bum-la latest by 11.30 or noon, weather changes drastically at noon; clouds move in and visibility is very low, chances of snowfall are also high.

Wear ankle-high waterproof shoes, good pair of gloves, balaclava and ear protection. Make sure you protect the camera equipment. Exposing camera to extreme temperatures within a short span of time will result in condensation on recording heads/CCD.

§  P.T.TSo Lake (17kms from Tawang): It’s a beautiful lake at an altitude of 13000 feet , surrounded by snow-covered mountains , with crystal – clear water.

Bunkers on the way to PT Tso Lake

(used during 1962 Indo-China war)

§  Sungester Lake: Popularly known as Madhuri Lake (after the movie shooting of Koyla done here) is located 35 kms. away from Tawang near the China Border. The drive to Sungester Lake is full of thrill and one can still see the war bunkers that had been used during the Chinses aggression in 1962 and the beautiful P-TSo lake.

§  Bum-La Pass / Indo-China Border (altitude: 15000 feet): If the routes are clear and there’s no snow one can go watch the Indo-China border. The flags of two countries are placed 10 feet from one another and the small strip of land in between is "No Man's Land”. Usually "No man's Land" is more than a kilometer wide on International Border, but with China still claiming 90,000 sq Kms of India it occupied for two months in 1962, technically speaking, one finds himself at the Actual Line of Control on a disputed territory.

Indo - China Border

Tawang - Kaziranga National Park (Assam) (around 400 kms.): A two days stay at Tawang is sufficient and then you can return back to Assam following the same route and stay at places that you followed while commencing for Tawang from Assam. But this time take the route of going to Kaziranga National Park instead of going to Nameri National Park from Bhalukpong.

Kaziranga National Park: A World Heritage Site, the park hosts two-thirds of the world's Great One-horned Rhinoceroses. Kaziranga boasts the highest density of tigers among protected areas in the world and was declared a Tiger Reserve in 2006. The park is home to large breeding populations of elephants, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer. Resorts and hotels are available in plenty. In the morning there’s a jeep safari to the jungle where you can see many rhinos , elephants , different variety of birds, deers , wild buffalos in abundance and also tigers can be spotted sometimes. In the evening there’s an elephant safari which is thrilling. One can see the rhinos from a distance of a few inches. On the other side of the forest there are tea gardens in abundance and also some retail shops are there where one can purchase different variety of tea at nominal prices. Stay in Kaziranga for a day sufficient.

Also read the travelogue about Leh – Ladakh, Manali, Andaman and Nicobar Islands.