Mesmerizingly Beautiful Kashmir

 
When we went to Arunachal Pradesh (India), I wondered can there be a place more beautiful than Arunachal. We had heard a lot about Kashmir being a paradise and a major attraction of not only Indians from recent past, but going decades and centuries back it was also major attraction for Mughals, British and many other people from all around the world. Thus, we decided to explore Kashmir this time. What we found there was the mesmerising beauty of the landscape, the snow-peaked lush green mountains, the turquoise blue rivers, the white cascades here and there, the beautiful blue sky with scattered white bunch of clouds (mark, such a beautiful sky one never gets to see in cities), and the bountiful nature at its best. What an escapade!
Kashmir is the north-western region of Indian subcontinent. Until the mid-19th century, the term Kashmir geographically denoted only the valley between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal mountain range. Today Kashmir denotes a larger area that includes the Indian-administered state of Jammu and Kashmir (which consists of the divisions: the Kashmir valley, Jammu and Ladakh), the Pakistani-administered Gilgit – Baltistan and the Azad Kashmir provinces, and the Chinese-administered regions of Aksai Chin and Trans-Karakoram Tract.
                                          
How to reach: By air /by road / by rail
By Air: Srinagar Airport is located 13 km from the city center and is named after Sheikh-Noor-ud-din Noorani, a saint in Kashmir. The airport has direct flights from many cities in India such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Jammu. Flights are operated by almost all major airlines. There are direct flights to Dubai as well. Jammu and Kashmir State Road Transport Corporation operates special coaches between airport and the city.
By Road: Srinagar lies on National Highway Number 1 which connects Kashmir Valley to Jammu and the rest of India. The famous Jawahar Tunnel that connects Jammu with Kashmir lies on the highway. One end of the highway is at Uri and the other at Jalandhar.
By Rail: Srinagar has a proposed railway station which is operational now. Jammu Tawi has been the closest station till now and has many trains such as the Jhelum Express, Jammu Tawi Express, Andaman Express and Malwa Express get you there.
How to plan the trip: There are various options of planning you trip depending on how you want to enjoy the best. Some options are -
a) By tour packages given by sites like yatra.com, makemytrip.com etc.
b) By staying in Kashmir and making one day trip to all the places nearby respectively.
c) By spending 2-3 days at each place in Kashmir and exploring it in real sense. (I mean not just touching the place and coming) If you are energetic, have the physical stamina and have the taste for adventure then decide to explore a place by hiking.
We being travel (adventure) freaks decided to go with the (c) option.

We have planned the trip as following:

i) Day 1: Arrive at Srinagar, from Srinagar Airport travel to Pahalgam

ii) Day 1 ,2 & 3: Night stay at Pahalgam or Aru valley. It is preferred to stay at Pahalgam/Aru for at least 2-3 nights in order to enjoy the beauty of surroundings.

iii) Day 4: From Pahalgam travel to Gulmarg, start in early morning from Pahalgam. If you are a general purpose traveller (will not be doing ice skiing etc) then only 1 night stay is more than sufficient in Gulmarg.

iv) Day 5 & 6: From Gulmarg travel to Sonmarg.

v) Day 7 & 8: From Sonmarg travel to Srinagar. Visit the mugal gardens of Srinagar and have night stay at house boat in Dal lake. Spend some time at leisure in cosy house boat.

Note: When you are planning for the trip it should be avoided to travel Pahalgam to Sonmarg or Sonmarg to Pahalgam as the distance to travel will be around 180km, which is very tiring for a hill station trip.

Best time to visit:
Best months to visit Srinagar: January, February, April, May, June, September, October.
Months to be avoided : March, July, August, November, December.
If you are looking for pleasant weather, April to June is definitely the best time. It is the time when places like Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh etc. are in full bloom.
September-October is also known as a good time to visit, especially for those interested in bird watching as this is the season of the migratory birds flying in from Siberia.
If you are not exactly looking for pleasant kind of fun, then Srinagar is worth visiting in winters (January-February) too. The place pretty much remains fully open all through the winters. It is one of the most famous places for skiing in India, especially Gulmarg, which is nearby.
Things required: A good sun-screen for higher altitudes, lip-guard is must, sun-glasses, and also warm clothes would be required through-out the year. Though Srinagar’s temperature is not much different from that of Delhi but Gulmarg and Sonamarg are cooler even in summers due to altitude.
In Srinagar warm clothes would be required only in winters but for Gulmarg and Sonamarg warm clothes are required throughout the year.
If visiting during the rainy season that is July-October then rain-coat/umbrella is must. Though it is best to keep at-least an umbrella since rains is unpredictable in Kashmir.
Itinerary:
When you come for Kashmir, keep atleast 8-9 days in your kitty and have that zest to explore the real Kashmir. On the first day when you arrive at Srinagar, keep the target to first explore Pahalgam -> Gulmarg ->Sonamarg -> Srinagar.
You can hire a cab from Srinagar for the number of days you want to spend and the amount charged is around ₹1600 per day (with AC).
CAUTION: Please donot wander anywhere in Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonmarg after 7:00 PM, because the wild animals like bears come down from forests for prey.
Route and plan for travel: 

Following are the distance to few places of interest in Srinagar. The Kashmir valley is a plane valley, so most of the distance is travelled through plane roads, typical hill roads are only for 30-40km while travelling from Srinagar to Pahalgam/Gulmarg/Sonmarg.

Srinagar to Pahalgam: 95 km

Srinagar to Sonmarg: 80km

Srinagar to Gulmarg: 56km

Pahalgam

It was once a shepherd’s village. Its name literally means “Shepherd’s Village”. About 95 kms away from Srinagar, Pahalgam is today a most popular hill-station of Kashmir. Pahalgam has always been Bollywood’s favourite destination and has been the reason behind one of the best locales seen in Bollywood movies.

On the way to Pahalgam…..
You pass through green tunnel first on exit from Srinagar via AnantNag.

Then…

Driving along the banks of River Lidder…

On the way you encounter paddy and saffron fields, apple orchards and walnut trees along the road. The tree that is seen in the right side of the below pic is the walnut tree. Dont forget to purchase walnuts from Pahalgam/ on the way to Pahalgam.The best variety of walnuts costs around ₹ 200/kg. The walnut quality could be identified from the thin shell and bigger nut.

 
Accomodation
On reaching Pahalgam, you have a choice either to stay in
Pahalgam city hotels (some are on the banks of river Lidder also) ,
Aru Valley – has very small resorts or better say, paying guest accommodation,
JKTDC huts (cheap and best if with family)
Camping on the banks of River Lidder in Aru Valley (best if you are adventurous and also brave) because Aru Valley forests are the residence of Mountain bears which are not doubt ferocious. They generally come out for prey after dawn. If you have the arrangement for bon-fire then it will keep them away.
Or the RiverFront resort (hut) where we put up. It is situated in midst of Pahalgam and Aru Valley.
On the way from Pahalgam to RiverFront resort…


The hut with tin shed below is the RiverFront resort.

At RiverFront resort…


As they say, “a picture is worth a thousand words”, we would appreciate if you see the video of the resort and location. You may also wish to see the site  http://riverfront.in/
Though the charges written on the site are more, we paid ₹1000 per day. (Charges are negotiable too).  

Video of RiverFront resort view in Aru Valley.

Facts: The region of Aru Valley are mostly dominated by Gujjars, a nomadic tribe in Kashmir. They are unlike the Gujjars found in Haryana, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Western Uttar Pradesh. These Gujjars follow Islam. They are known to be Rajputs of Rajasthan once upon a time who came to Kashmir Decades back due to famine and disease in Rajasthan and thereafter, lived in Kashmir. During summers they stay near the mountain peaks or at higher altitudes and during winters they come to lower altitude valleys and sometimes go further down to Himachal Pradesh as well. They do little farming wherever they stay and keeps a huge herd of cows, sheeps and goats and also keep mules.


Pahalgam Mining Zoo:


Aru Valley: Aru is a grassland surrounded by a gorge on one side. It is 12 km from Pahalgam. Aru is a beautiful shaded valley of the Lidder river. Encircling and protecting Aru, are the conifer- spread mountains with occasional flash of high, snow-covered peaks rising against the blue sky. Aru is one of the most beautiful hill resorts of Kashmir and is still, serene and idyllic. You can easily do hiking from RiverFront Resort till here. It’s around 4-5 kms from the resort.




 
Chandanwari:

It is situated 16-km from Pahalgam and is the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra. This region looks very similar to European resorts and is a good, idyllic campsite. The eye catching sapphire like waters, the green fields, the meadows and the deodar trees add to the charming beauty of this heavenly valley. This place is also famous for trout fishing.

The captivating Sheeshnag River at Chandanwari with its sheer force and clear waters.


Betaab Valley
Betaab Valley is the place where famous scenes from movie Beetab were shot. It comes in the way to Chandanwari from Pahalgam.




Betaab valley is the favourite picnic spot of not only the tourists but also the locals. The locals come here in groups from as far as Jammu and bring with them the utensils and cook the food here itself and dine together. One can have fun in the river which is not at all deep and the maximum level of water is till the knees.

At Beetab Valley you will find many hawkers selling saffron. DONOT purchase saffron from them. It’s an artificial one! In fact it’s very hard to get the real pure saffron even at Kashmir where it is grown in abundance.

Pahalgam Golf Course






Baisaran:
5 kms from Pahalgam, Baisaran is a lush, undulating meadow surrounded by thicky wooded forests of pine and hills with dense vegetation. Baisaran is also known as “Mini Switzerland”. This region is a good campsite. This grassy glen offers a panoramic view of Pahalgam town and Lidder Valley.
You can easily hike 5 kms one way, but you can take a guide along for ₹300. But hike only if you are strong enough to cover 10 kms both ways on steep slopes because you will not get a pony to come back from Baisaran. Also if its rainy then the path which is muddy and stony becomes very slippery.
On the way to Baisaran…


Baisaran…



Mountains surrounding Baisaran are hidden by clouds due to heavy rains.


Baisaran on a clear weather day.

Places to eat 
Generally the hotel/resort where you are staying in provide the meals. If you want better quality food then go for Nathu’s Restaurant or Daani Paani. You get variety of dishes here and provide better service.
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Gulmarg

Gulmarg is one of the beautiful places that can be visited in Kashmir valley. Gulmarg literally means the “meadow of flowers”. Gulmarg's legendary beauty,prime location and proximity to Srinagar make it one of the premier hill resort in the country. Gulmarg, the hill resort is located only 52 km. to the south west of Srinagar in the Baramulla district of Jammu and Kashmir. Gulmarg is situated at an altitude of 2730 meters above sea level and has a gently sloping topography. Gulmarg attracts various tourists due to its natural beauty. The snow-clad peaks and the lovely landscapes of Gulmarg have provided background for several Bollywood ventures.

Today Gulmarg is not merely a hill resort - but it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of 2,650 m and also the Asia's only heli-skiing resort in the winter. There is immense beauty and various adventure activities that make Gulmarg more than a cool hill resort. It is a convenient base for trek to the Himalayas and also offers various winter sports facilities to the tourists.

Time to visit: Gulmarg can be visited throughout the year. The winter months from November to February are ideal for skiing. The months from May to September are pleasant to visit the place.

Tourist Attractions

The main reason to come here, at least in winter, is the off-piste, deep-powder, long-run skiing, and snowboarding. The adventurers are known to throng the hill resort as soon as the snow falls. The slopes of Gulmarg make it Asia’s only heli-skiing resort. So travel to Gulmarg and experience the natural beauty of Gulmarg yourself.

Gulmarg’s Gondola (Cable Car):

For a fun-filled ride of a most unusual kind, Gulmarg's newly constructed Gondola lift through pine-clad slopes is an experience of a lifetime. This Gondola will take you up above 15,000 feet and is one of the highest in the world. Here, you can touch the skies and merge with the clouds.

Gondola Base

Gulmarg boasts Asia's highest and longest cable car project, the Gulmarg Gondola. The two-stage ropeway ferries about 600 people per hour to and from Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft)). The ropeway project is a joint venture of the Jammu and Kashmir government and French firm Pomagalski.

The Gondola Ride

View from Gondola…

Gujjars herding their sheeps…

Gujjar houses, just like bunkers…

The first stage transfers from the Gulmarg resort at 2,600 m (8,530 ft) to Kongdoori Station in the bowl-shaped Kongdori valley.

The second stage of the ropeway, which has 36 cabins and 18 towers, takes skiers to a height of 3,747 m (12,293 ft) on Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft)). The second stage was completed in a record time of about two years at a cost of Rs 11 crore and opened on May 28, 2005. The French company had also built the first phase of the gondola project, connecting Gulmarg to Kongdoori, in 1998. You can decide whether you wish to go to Stage two when you have reached stage one. The hills visible from the top are said to be LOC and Pakistan administered Kashmir.

Gulmarg during Winters….

Tourists cycling on the snowy slopes…

Skiing at second stage of Gondola ride…

 

Note: Gondola ride (infact visiting Gulmarg itself) is more enjoyable during the winter season i.e. in December-February, when there is snow all around. Skiing can also be enjoyed at this place.

Outer Circle Walk

Outer Circle Walk, an 11 km long trek around the Kashmir Valley is highly recommended for individuals visiting Gulmarg. The participants are taken through the “outer circle” surrounding the valley which crosses rows of pine trees, lush green grasslands and beautiful landscapes.The view of the Nanga Parbat, the world's fourth highest peak, which stands at a height of 8500 m, is a major attraction of the walk. Trekkers can also witness the beauty of the Haramukh and Sunset Peak, two popular tourist spots, during the walk.

Alpathar Lake

Some website list the Alpathar Lake as a tourist destination but the Alpathar Lake is a very normal water pond (nothing like lake). It is not a worth visit.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Gulmarg is easily available. There are several hotels and huts that cater to the needs of the tourists. There are hotels that suit the varying budgets of the tourists to Gulmarg. All the basic facilities are available to make your stay in Gulmarg comfortable. You may check out for accommodation options run by the Jammu and Kashmir Tourist Development Corporation or the private parties. It is advisable to go in advance reservations in the peak seasons.

Places to eat

Delicious and hygienic food is a problem in Gulmarg. You can stay at a budget hotel and eat at some good place like (Hotel Park) in Gulmarg.

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Sonamarg

Sonamarg is situated on the Srinagar-Leh highway. Sonmarg is synonymous with quiet meadows and flower-carpeted fields surrounded by amazing glaciers, miniature plateaus, snowfields, pines and islets. The entire region, 80 km from Srinagar, has some of the highest mountain ranges of the world. These snow clad peaks when reflect the golden rays of the sun, give a sparkling effect to the entire valley. This is the reason why the hill station is named Sonmarg or Sonamarg.

Sindh river flowing through Sonamarg….

The word Sonamarg literally means 'the Meadow of Gold'.

The Sonmarg valley is covered by the Sindh river. In winter, this small town is covered with snow and reflect a different charm.

Most of the travellers prefer excursion trip to Sonamarg from Srinagar. However, it is recommended that you should stay at this beautiful place for one night and enjoy the natural beauty of this place.

Sonmarg in the evening…

Sonamarg provides white river rafting for adventure lovers. The river of Sindh has various stretches of wild water where one can enjoy the thrilling sport of rafting. One can even go for a long rafting expedition starting from Baltal and ending at Shutkari Bridge at Sonamarg. With variety of stretches available, one is sure to have a pleasure rafting trip, whether it be a novice, adventure seeker or experienced rafter.

Tourist Attractions

Sonmarg in itself is a beautiful place full of natural grace and gifts. This charming little town of Sonmarg has some stunning blue water lakes, amazing glaciers and rich in color grasslands. From Sonmarg, you can also look at the towering snow clad mountains of the Ladakh region that are a real treat to eyes.

Thajiwas Glacier

Thajiwas glacier is the main tourist attraction in Sonmarg. The place is about 7km from Sonmarg. One can reach there by hourse or by trekking. This is an easy, one day trek.The blinding white snow and blue sky tempt you to walk a little longer. The further up you go the better becomes the views of the snow bound Himalayan peaks. On the way there are waterfalls which are created in the warmer seasons only due to the melting snow.

Trek to Thajiwas Glacier…

Bisansar Lake & Krishnasar Lake

There are two popular lakes named Bisansar and Krishnasar are located at Sonamarg. Bisansar Lake, beautiful natural lake is located on Sonmarg Bisansar road via Nichinai Pass, crossing the river at Nichinai Pass at an altitude of 4, 084 meters. Krishnasagar Lake is located at an altitude of 3,801meters known for Trout fishing. One can reach there by hourse or by trekking. Nichinai Pass serves as a Trekking base and is located at a distance of around 13 km from Sonamarg. The lakes of Krishnasar and Vishansar are located around 15km from this place.

Nilagrad Village

Nilagrad River is located at a distance of about 6 km from Sonamarg, it is the place where confluence of a mountain river and Indus river takes place. Its just an ordinary village but the scenic beauty here is good. The locales here believe that the water has curative powers and can cure any skin ailments. You can go by walk till Nilagrad but avoid going after 6pm anywhere because the wild animals like bears come down from forests and are fierce.

On the way to Nilagrad…

Baltal

Baltal, situated at a distance of around 15 km to the north of Sonamarg, serves as a camping ground for the Amarnath pilgrims. It rests at the foot of Zoji-La Pass on the banks of the river. Baltal is more famous for its closeness to Amarnath cave. There is a walk to the cave which is approximately 14 km away from here. During the Amarnath yatra, many pilgrims set up camps here to rest.

Zojila Pass

It is located 20 km east of Sonamarg at an altitude of 3540 meters that leads the way to Ladakh Plateau. Sonamarg is also known as the “Gateway to Ladakh”, is the take off point for the drive to Ladakh.

Kheer Bhawani Temple

It is on the way from Srinagar to Sonmarg. It is located 5 km from Ganderbal in Tulmul village. The Goddess Ragnya Devi is the main deity. Jesth Ashtami festival is held in this temple during May June every year. As per the popular legend the goddess changes color of the spring water.

Accommodation

There are few hotels in Sonmarg. The JKTDC (Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation) runs a tourist bungalow. The newly formed (Sonmarg Development Authority) SDA tourist villages are the most economical. SDA camp sites near the Sindhu River offer natural yet comfortable accommodation at economical charges. In short, they are cheap and best only that they have to be booked well in advance.

During the Amarnath Yatra, rooms get booked quickly. If planning to visit Sonmarg during the peak season, book your tickets in advance.

Places to eat

Sonamarg being a small place doesnot have many restaurants/dhabas. The one that are there donot serve much good and hygienic. So better eat at restaurant at JKDTC huts who serve all types of food and the quality also is better.

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Srinagar

The Mughal Gardens
With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them - the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions.
Shalimar Bagh: Built by Emperor Jehangir for his wife Nur Jehan, Shalimar, 15 kms from the Tourists Reception Centre, is a beautiful garden with sweeping vistas over gardens and lakes, and shallow terraces. The garden is 539 m by 182 m and has four terraces, rising one above the other. A canal lined with polished stones and supplied with water from Harwan runs through the middle of the garden. The fourth terrace, by far the best, was once reserved for royal ladies.





Nishat Bagh: built by Empress Nur Jahan's brother Asaf Khan. The largest of the gardens, Nishat has seven terraces. These terraces rise dramatically off the maountains from the eastern part of the lake, and these together with the flower-beds, a riot of brilliant colors, present an unforgettable sight. To add to the picturesque scenario of the Nishant Garden, a magnificent water channel flows right in the middle of the garden.







Chashma Shahi: It is the first Mughal Garden you will pass after Nehru Park. Built at a height above the city , its views are as stupendous as its layout. The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal gardens, Cheshmashahi has only three terraces in addition to a natural spring of water enclosed in a stone pavilion.



Dal Lake
Popularly known as 'Srinagar's jewel' the Dal Lake, spread over a straggling 26 sq.km, is the most popular tourist attraction in Srinagar. Renowned for its house boats and Shikara boat rides, set against the slow clad glorious Himalayas. It is also known as the "Jewel in the crown of Kashmir” which flocks tourism from all over the world.
Floating land at Dal Lake…


CRPF station on an island in Dal Lake…

Houseboats…

Market place in Dal Lake…


Shikaras stopping by the floating markets…

Dal Lake in the night…



Its unparalleled beauty & scenic environs makes it ideal to stay aboard the luxury houseboats & enjoy the gleaming evening sun shimmering on the lake as it goes down. During the winter season, the temperature sometimes reaches −11 °C (12 °F), freezing the lake.
The lake located about 10 km from Srinagar and is easily reachable by taxis within 20 mins. Besides, it is also a hub for many water sports including water surfing, swimming, Shikara rides, kayaking, houseboat stays, angling and canoeing. Some other attractions that can be visited include Nehru Park, Char Chinar, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh.
Char Chinar…

Nehru Park…


You can make your stay more interesting by trying rowing the traditional boat of the Houseboat owner.

Nagin Lake
Nagin Lake, though sometimes referred to as a separate lake, is actually part of Dal Lake, being linked through a causeway which permits only bikers and walkers to enter the lake precincts. The caseway carries the water supply pipeline to the Srinagar city in the east. The lake is bounded by the Shankaracharya hill (Takht-e-Suleiman) on the south and Hari Parbat on the west and is located at the foot of the Zabarwan hills. Willow and poplar trees flank the edges of the lake. Nagin Lake also has House boats and sikara and it is much clean than Dal lake.
Unlike Dal Lake, Nagin Lake is situated at a calm and peaceful location and away from city. During the peak season staying in Nagin Lake is a better option than staying in Dal Lake which becomes more crowded and its just like staying in a city.


Lal Chowk
Lal Chowk or Red Square is the main market in Srinagar where you can buy almost anything to make your tour comfortable. Kashmir is a major producer of fruits and dry fruits like almonds, peaches, apricots and walnuts. Besides these fruits like apples, strawberries and cherries are grown and cultivated in large quantities. You can buy all such stuff (dry fruits, clothes, medicines) from here.



Accommodation
Its best to stay in the houseboat while you are in Srinagar. We stayed at Roxana houseboat and our stay there was a wonderful one It was just like home away from home. The houseboat has been so artistically designed and decorated that that’s a marvel in itself. Our hosts were also very hospitable and nice and made us feel as if we are home.




Places to eat
Srinagar being the capital has many restaurants and hotels where you can dine. We took our meals in our houseboat itself because the food served was so hygienic and delicious that we didnot even think to eat elsewhere. You can also try out Nathu Sweets infront of Nehru Park, where you get several varieties of sweets, cakes and snacks.